Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Say cheese; iPhone app takes food pictures and counts calories

When you crave a burger you crave a burger. And sometimes not knowing exactly how many calories are in it can be a good thing. But a new iPhone app is about to put an end to all that. It guesses the calories of your meal by taking a picture of it and compares it to a database of about 100,000 foods, counting up the total and delivering the bad news directly to your phone. Yikes.



The app has been developed by Japan's NTT Communications - who else. Strangely while the Japanese are pretty nifty at technology they are also passionate about food. When I lived in Tokyo this came as a big surprise, in addition to the fact that Japanese food is heaven, and not confined to sushi and noodles. Sadly, it was also when I lived in Japan in the late nineties that Japanese girls first adopted the English word "diet". Up to that point there was no Japanese equivalent. The popularity of fast food had led to the idea of weight loss and predictably soon, being super thin became a fashion just like in Europe and the West.


So it's no surprise the app came out of Japan. It seems that all you have to do is point your phone at your plate, shoot and the app compares the food image with it's database. Currently the app is heavy on ramen and Japanese food but they're working to expand the database for food eaten accross the world. Of course they are - can you imagine how popular this is going to be? Expect every 10 year old plus girl in a MacDonald's, grimly photographing her food before she eats a quarter of it and leaves.


We know what basic food choices are bad for us so I'm conflicted on whether the development of this app is a good thing or really damaging to how we eat. At the same time, where people are trying to loose weight or face serious obesity problems, perhaps knowing the calorie count of their food is no bad thing.



The app also offers potential to link to social networks while you're counting calories, and possibly get support for your dieting. On the down side, there's nothing like a few negative responses from Facebook on your eating habits to probably throw users into a stress attack of eating even more junk food, after all, eating bad food is very often emotion related. But online support groups for dieting aren't anything new and don't need an iPhone app to make them function. Many groups offer users support and ideas for exercise plans, alternative food choices and a place to have a bit of a moan or to celebrate your success.
On twitter there are Irish followers using #twiet as a hashtag group to communicate their weight loss adventures, many of these are also food lovers and foodies and anything which connects people with common interests is surely a positive thing. Check out #irishfoodies on twitter and myself at @campbellsuz for continual food news and support for Irish food producers, restaurants and eating. Yes - actual eating, lots of it, rates pretty highly in my book. I won't be getting the new app. I think I know what's in most of what I eat, and when I don't want to know, I don't want to know.

Friday, November 5, 2010

Food producers, farmers, send your stories my way!

Apart from #cheesegate (more to follow) things have been quiet on the food news front this week as the television documentary that developed from our book is in the throes of pre-production. What this basically means is - lots of me banging the phones, hunting around the country for good food stories and looking for farmers, all over again.


This time last year we were publicising the book, and one really nice thing that stemmed from it was the huge amount of consumers, food producers and farmers who approached Philip and myself about questions they had related to food - why are there Israeli potatoes in Irish supermarkets? Why do some organic vegetables have pesticide residues? Why can I barely make a living as a farmer?


These questions have never gone away, and in the spring of next year a new documentary for RTE, presented by Philip and written by myself will investigate what we're eating in Ireland and how our shopping habits directly affect the value of our agri-food sector. We want to examine how what we eat can help Irish food production get us out of the economic mire that we're in.


One central aspect to this is our behaviour as consumers and examining the food that we buy -for example, how many of us are motivated to look for Irish produce on the supermarket shelves. One thing we're really looking for is farmers with good stories about difficulties they have had getting their product to market, and specifically into supermarkets.


This is an area sadly familiar to me, last year I was called as a witness to the Government's Joint Oireachtas Committee on Agriculture to speak on the unfair balance of power which the multiples hold in the Irish food market. While supermarkets are part of the solution to getting a bigger market share for Irish farmers, artisan food producers and manufacturers, they can also be part of the problem. One thing we really want to feature in the documentary is these stories - I know it's difficult for farmers to talk about the hoops that supermarkets sometimes make them jump through to sell their product. Anecdotally the evidence is there - I know that it's much harder to get people to talk about it in reality, yet this is what we're looking for.


I'll keep you posted on news about the documentary as we progress, and it would be great if food producers reading this blog could pass on the word and send people my way who have good stories to tell. For my foreign readers I hope the documentary will be of interest to you when it's broadcast. It's fantastic to have such a spread of people reading this blog from around the world and keeping up with food news here and internationally. It gives me a huge thrill to see readers from Russia to Brazil, from the US to Italy and the UK visiting the blog. It's lovely to have a readerhip of people interested in what's going on in Ireland. It's indicative of how people can be so connected by a love of food and who want to see it farmed and produced properly.


We want to tell the stories at the heart of Irish food so please, anyone that feels they have something to add, get in touch!

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Quick Halloween drinks suggestion

So we've had black chicken for Halloween, how about black vodka? Doesn't this look fantastic? Cool, icy and sinister, just the thing for this time of year.

Blavod is a vodka I'm just come across that's produced in the UK. It's made from distilled molasses and coloured with extracts from the Burmese black Catechu tree. Available apparently since 2004, I have yet to find an Irish supplier but you can buy it online from
http://www.drinkshop.com/.

It costs £ 14.79 which I reckon is pretty good value. It's also had some good reviews so is certified not to be pushed to the back of the drinks cabinet the following day.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

The best chutney recipe ever

This time last year I vowed never to grow tomatoes again. You have to water them non-stop, re-tie them regularly as they fall over, and at the end of the day all they produce is bucket loads of green unripe fruit.
Despite lots of heartbreaking appeals to the tomato God, by last November winter was really setting in and it was time for to harvest our green, definitely not red, stock of fruit. No matter how many paper bags we put them in, or how many days they sat beside over-ripe bananas, the tomatoes just weren't ripening, then we had a piece of luck.
We found this recipe for Green Tomato Chutney on Caroline Hennessy's brilliant Bibliocook blog. I could lie and say that it was me who stumbled across it but actually it was Philip. Caroline had given our book "Basketcase" a rather nice review on her blog so in turn we decided to nab her chutney recipe and give it a go.

So finally, we had a home for all those green tomatoes. Alongside Bramley apples from the garden, a net of onions, some vinegar and sugar, we had a fabulous chutney. We put jars of it in the basement, and it kept us going all year - delicious on its own on a slice of toast or as an accompaniment to a cheese board. It has a creamy softness without that vinegary tartness that some chutneys have. It tasted fantastic, and unless our friends and family are brilliant liars, the jars dispersed to all and sundry seemed to go down very well.
And so came tomato harvest time again this year. We had three varieties - marmandes, ferlines and a cherry tomato, NONE of which ripened, despite much better sunshine this summer and a lot of care. So we gave in and took the green fruit inside once again, boiled up the tomatoes and apples and set about making the chutney.
After chopping the tomatoes and apples it's dead simple; chuck it all into a few large pots, bring it up to the boil and then leave it on some low heat and wait. The fruit softens and becomes a lovely goey chutney mix. You can probably make this with ripe tomatoes as well, so it's a nice recipe for some comfort winter food that will store well and keep you going all year. After moving house and being without a cooker for over three weeks, it was great to see pots happily simmering on the hob and steam vanishing up the extractor fan, all credit to Smeg who at least seem to at last have delivered us a cooker worth waiting for.
Now all we need is a decent phoneline and some mobile coverage, unless I start doing smoke signals from the top of the hill, we may isolated for a while. Maybe sometimes that's no bad thing...
Green Tomato Chutney

Green tomatoes - 1kg
Apples - 1.5kg, peeled, cored
Ginger - about 2cms, peeled and finely chopped
Fresh chillies - 2, finely chopped
Sultanas - 225g, chopped
Onions - 500g, chopped
Salt - 2 teaspoons
Demerara sugar - 500g
Malt vinegar - 500ml
Mustard seeds, or Dalkey mustard which we used - 1 heaped tablespoon
Put all the ingredients into a large, heavy based pan. Heat gently, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Simmer, stirring regularly, for 2-3 hours until reduced to a thick, rich pulp. When the chutney is ready you should be able to draw a wooden spoon through it and see the base of the pan for a few moments.
Decant into warmed, sterilised jars, - just simply wash them and leave them in the oven for a while to blast them germ-free. Cover and label. Store in a cool dark place, allowing to mature for at least a month before using.
Makes approximately 10 jars.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Black chicken for Halloween, anyone?

Yes it looks scary, but apparently black chicken meat is the next big thing. American chef Rick Moonen recently thrust black chicken into the spotlight after he made it into a mousse for his stint on Top Chef Masters (the US equivalent of Masterchef).

The black chicken he used is a Silkie hen - a variety of small hen which are prized for their fluffy feathers, large tassled Ugg-boot style feet and are much beloved of serious fowl fanciers who bring their beloved Silkies to shows up and down the country. I've often been told that Silkies are great layers and make lovely hens for home use, but I've never seen them on a plate before.

This particular Silkie has bones and flesh that are the shade of onyx; apparently it has a genetic combination that gives it it's unique colour, and it has a rich, gamey flavour to match.

It's a fantastic look for Halloween and I'd love to know if anyone in Ireland produces this Silkie for the pot, please let me know. Apparently the Chinese have for millenia eaten black chicken (which in China is called wu gu ji, or black-boned chicken). For them, putting the dark poultry into a stew or soup is a great remedy for curing colds, cramps, or a headache. This ties in with the Jewish tradition of using chicken soup to cure all sorts of sickness - apparently in the soup's droplets of fat lie unique qualities to boost immunity, so if someone tells you to eat chicken soup next time you're sick they may be on the right track.

So if chicken soup is a superfood, black chicken soup might even be better. Would love to get my hands on some of these black-fleshed Silkies, anyone with info, send it my way!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Have Walmart just discovered It's a Wonderful Life?

Wal-Mart, the worlds biggest food retailer has just announced a programme of investment for sustainable agriculture and to increase the amount of food it buys from small farmers. This has huge implications, including for us here in Ireland. After all, ASDA are owned by Walmart and they are waiting just over the border for the right moment to pounce down here, and possibly buy out Dunnes. To say I'm shocked with this turnaround in policy is an understatement. Did Walmart suddenly discover a DVD of It's a Wonderful Life? Is their CEO about to die and feels he must leave a legacy to the world? Is it some giant PR game? Lets look at the details -

According to today's New York Times...


"The program is intended to put more locally grown food in Wal-Mart stores in the United States, invest in training and infrastructure for small and medium-sized farmers particularly in emerging markets and begin to measure the efficiently of large suppliers in growing and getting their produce to market.

Given that Wal-Mart is the world’s largest grocer, with one of the biggest food supply chains, any changes that it makes would have wide implications. Wal-Mart’s decision five years ago to set sustainability goals that, among other things, increased its reliance on renewable energy and reduced packaging waste among its supplies, sent broad ripples through product manufacturers.


Large companies like Proctor and Gamble redesigned packages that are now also carried by other retailers, while Wal-Mart’s measurements of environmental efficiency among its suppliers helped define how they needed to change.

“No other retailer has the ability to make more of a difference than Wal-Mart,” Wal-Mart’s president and chief executive Michael T. Duke, said at a meeting Thursday morning, according to prepared remarks. “Grocery is more than half of Wal-Mart’s business. Yet only four of our 39 public sustainability goals address food.”

Ok, back to me - it's still sounding too good to be true. Up until now it's been in Walmarts interest to squeeze suppliers on margin until they can barely survive and keep the price of food down. There have been mountains of PhDs written about the devastating effect they have had on everything from farming and the environment to the shape of small towns in America. I'm afraid I'm suspicious about all this but lets face it, their financial commitments are a drop in the ocean to their normal spend and the changes won't be fully met until the end of 2015.


Back to the New York Times -


In the United States, Wal-Mart will double the percentage of locally grown produce, to 9 percent, the company said. Wal-Mart defines local produce as that grown and sold in the same state. Still, the program is far less ambitious than in some other countries — in Canada, for instance, where Wal-Mart expects to buy 30 percent of produce locally by the end of 2013, and, when local produce is available, increase that to 100 percent.


In emerging markets, Wal-Mart has pledged to sell $1 billion of food from small and medium farmers (which it defines as farmers with fewer than 20 hectares or about 50 acres). It will also provide training for the farmers and their laborers on how to choose crops that are in demand as well as the proper application of water and pesticides.

Both in the United States and globally, Wal-Mart will invest more than $1 billion to improve its perishable supply chain. For example, if trucks, trains and distribution centers could help farmers in l Minnesota get crops to Wal-Mart more quickly, the result would be less spoiled food, a longer shelf life, and presumably more profit for both the farmer and for Wal-Mart. Wal-Mart said it planned to reduce food waste in emerging-market stores by 15 percent, and in other stores by 10 percent.

As it did in the environmental arena, it will begin creating an agriculture-specific index to figure out how to measure waste and efficiency among produce suppliers. It will be asking its biggest producers to answer questions about water, fertilizer and chemical use. The eventual goal is to include that information in a sustainability rating that customers would see, so they could decide whether to choose one avocado over another based on how much waste it had created. Wal-Mart would also use the information when it decides from whom to buy.

Finally, it announced specific sourcing guidelines, including that sustainably sourced palm oil be used in all its private-label products (the Wal-Mart house brands) and that any beef it sells not contribute to the deforestation of the Amazon because of cattle-ranching expansion.


“When we do this on Wal-Mart’s scale, we can deliver a global food supply that improves health and livelihoods around the world,” Leslie A. Dach, executive vice president for corporate affairs, said, according to prepared remarks.

While the over all goals include Sam’s Club, the warehouse-store wing of Wal-Mart, that division also has goals specific to it: It will increase sales of fair-trade certified produce and flowers by 15 percent, require all seafood suppliers to become certified as sustainable, and reduce food waste in clubs and distribution centers by 11 percent annually.

Environmental and agricultural specialists who had worked with Wal-Mart on the program said a few items stood out.

Beginning to measure how farms produced food, with the sustainability index, was a big step, they said.
“The impact of not just Wal-Mart but the entire food and agricultural sector starting to define what is acceptable practice in their supply chain, and then what is unacceptable practice, will move agricultural producers en masse,” said Marty Matlock, a professor of ecological engineering at the University of Arkansas. “The index represents a real number that will mean improvement on the ground: improving ecosystem health, soil health and food quality.”
“This is huge,” said Michelle Mauthe Harvey, project manager for the corporate partnerships program at Environmental Defense Fund. “Once people are asked those questions, if they haven’t been measuring, they measure more.”
“Knowing what’s embedded in the food before it ever leaves the farm is really significant, because then you can begin to embrace better practices, you can begin to identify opportunities for improvement.”
Ms. Harvey said the investment into infrastructure was also a big step forward.
“The majority of efforts have tended toward some local sourcing, and you had a fairly active effort around organics” among other grocers, Ms. Harvey said, but there was a gap between support for local farmers and how those farmers would find transportation or warehouses for their food.
“Our agricultural system over the last three to four decades, as we’ve moved to reliance on key locations like California and Florida,” she said, “we’ve made it very difficult for local farmers to actually get their food to market.”

Back to me - either way, this is mega news. What's motivating their decision is what's really of interest. Are they afraid that after the recent recall of billions of eggs in the US, swine flu and avian flu that they will eventually poison half of us with factory farmed food and leave the market with no alternative?


The cynical part of me says its all about market share. Walmart/ASDA know customers are getting more copped on about food and don't want something as cheap as chips if it might possibly kill them. So they're getting in there before it's too late. But let's watch this space, I get a large smell of greenwashing from this, Tesco have tried this game before and it doesn't work. Lets just say I'll keep a close eye on their progress and let you all know how its going. Walmart turning into environmental guardian angel? Yeah. Let's see what actually happens.

Red meat - the most intense nutrient-rich food available to human beings

A new take on meat - my piece in today's Irish Independent

With celebrities from Paul McCartney to Star Wars actress Natalie Portman telling us to eat less meat, switching our shopping habits towards a vegetarian diet is one of the pieces of advice dominating the food world right now.

The rise in obesity levels combined with the unsustainable nature of beef production means that consumers are now encouraged to limit the quantity of meat they eat and turn instead to buying more vegetables, fish and meat alternatives.

But a new book by Irish butcher Pat Whelan argues that going back to the old-fashioned staples of our traditional diet; eating plenty of beef, pork and lamb is not only a healthy choice but one essential to our wellbeing. Whelan, who is the fifth generation of his family to be involved in meat production, runs a butcher shop in Clonmel, Co Tipperary and his knowledge of meat from farm to fork has earned him a Rick Stein Food Hero award.

In his book "An Irish Butcher Shop", Whelan argues that one of the reasons consumers find it easy to turn away from meat is a lack of knowledge on how to prepare it and an over reliance on inferior quality meat sold in plastic packaging in supermarkets.
He points out that beef should not be sitting in a pool of its own blood in a plastic box, and that everything about the mass production of meat and the way it's marketed to consumers is contrary to the core benefits and joys of eating it.

He argues that instead of turning away from meat, we should be appreciating its unique benefits -- red meat is the single most intense nutrient-rich food available to human beings. It's a crucial source of iron and trace elements such as zinc and copper, as well as vitamins B12 and B6.
Fat on meat is also something we shouldn't be afraid of -- it is fundamental to the taste and tenderness of the finished product.

Irish beef that is fed on pasture develops a good covering of fat which gives it great flavour. Because it's grass-fed, this makes the meat a high quality, close to organic product. Meat from grass-fed animals has up to four times more omega-3 fatty acids than meat from grain fed animals. It is also the richest known source of CLA or "conjugated linoleic acid"; an exceptional omega-6 fat which has been attributed with antioxidant and anti-cancer properties.
Most of the current opposition to beef consumption is related to cattle "feed lots" -- vast industrial-scale feeding units found typically in the US but now growing in popularity in India and China. Here animals live on a regime rich in maize and cereals which is not their natural diet.
As the appetite for beef grows across the world, we have to produce more cereals (wheat, barley and so on) to make the animal feed that cattle eat.

In many developing countries, feeding cattle (or chicken and pork in large quantities) takes other foods and water resources out of the food chain. Put simply, if everyone across the world adapted to the 'Western Diet', we'd run out of many foodstuffs, and water.

Farm animals also produce more than 10% of the world's greenhouse gas emissions but new approaches to the anti-meat argument such as Simon Fairlie's book -- Meat: A Benign Extravagance has swayed even the hardened environmentalists such as best-selling author George Monbiot back towards eating meat. Fairlie argues that it's specifically feed-lot production of cattle that reduces the world's food supply and that what we should be doing is eating meat but simply less of it.

In Ireland the situation is very different; cattle and sheep roam outdoors and eat grass which is in plentiful supply, so the beef and lamb we eat takes a minimum of inputs and is fairly sustainable.

However, most pigs and poultry in Ireland are farmed in intensive indoor units where the quality of the animals' lives is poor and again they are eating a cereal based diet.
Ireland comes closest to factory farming in these pig and chicken "units"; vast indoor sheds packed densely with animals.

The intensive production of chicken and pork over decades has also affected what we're getting on our plate -- pigs are slaughtered at about seven months old, and unfortunately quality and flavour of modern pork has been affected by the breeding of faster maturing pigs. So the consumer pays the price with an inferior-tasting product.

The bacon and rashers most of us eat have been injected with brine, and can often contain more water than meat content. So while we think mass-produced cheap rashers are good value, if they end up a third of their original size after cooking then it's a bad deal.

You might get better value from an artisan-produced pork that's more expensive raw but yields more meat when cooked. One way to keep both sides happy is to continue to eat meat but put more thought into what we buy.

Pat's book is full of recipes for everything from 'pot-roasted shoulder of lamb' to 'boozy rabbit with prunes'.

His advice is to vary what you buy from the old staples of sirloin, fillet, lamb cutlets, pork chops and rashers. Try new cuts and free-range or artisan products occasionally. The pay-off is in quality, taste and ultimately better value for money.

An Irish Butcher Shop by Pat Whelan, published by Collins Press. Suzanne Campbell's food blog is at www.basketcase theblog.blogspot.com
- Suzanne Campbell
Irish Independent

Friday, October 8, 2010

The worlds first Twitter cookbook

For those of us who sometimes like our food in a hurry, Twitter is one way to share recipes for the tactfully short-handed and poetically brief.
And yes, it is possible to describe a recipe in 140 characters. American amateur cook, Maureen Evans has got pretty good at it - so good, in fact, that she developed the first ever Twitter cookbook.
Released last month, Eat Tweet (Artisan US) compiles more than 1,000 tweeted recipes from Evans' @cookbook account, which she still updates with new creations, like Whisky Apples, Roasted Tomato Sauce or Eggs Berlin: shallots, thyme, lemon, pumpkin and poached eggs. (This sounds really nice actually, I may be making it myself.)
Here's an example of how she works - "3c shallot/⅓c olvoil h@low; +6c zuke 20m@low to tender; +¼t thyme/lem&garlc/s+p. Top 4pce pumpernickel tst; +4poachedegg/basil." For those who might be wary of translating what she calls Twitterese, Evans has posted eighteen decoded recipes on her Huffington Post blog, including Julia Child's Boeuf Bourguignon.
Thankfully the book also contains a dictionary of terms like tst (toasted), and I have to say this is really needed for people who are mentally challenged and still can't figure out what "c" stands for above. Evan wrote on The Huffington Post site, "The abbreviated form might be a little intimidating at first, but with the aid of the glossary, it will soon become like a second language for you."
Once you start looking at her twitter account (@cookbook) it gets kind of addictive and there's loads of stuff there which sounds mouthwatering, impossible as that sounds in 140 characters with no pictures. I guess some technologies have made our imaginations work harder - I'm not saying twitter-length recipes will take over the world but as a means to impart cooking information quickly or to share recipes there can't be a better tool, all we have to do is learn a little more of Twitterese.
Doh! just realised that "c" is cup. Nobel prize for deciphering abbreviated English landing in my postbox any moment. For food news, recipes, links and an attempt at occasional humour I'm also on twitter - @campbellsuz

Monday, October 4, 2010

Is being a foodie just another kind of elitism?

I rarely publish other material here but this piece from American farmer and local food campaigner Joel Salatin was just too good not to draw attention to. He asks the question - if you're interested in good food, how should you reply when you're labelled an elitist?


His responds to the "elitist" charge with an analysis of why good food is more expensive than commercial, subsidy-aided manufactured produce. His arguments are arresting, and form what's basically a synopsis of the pressures many Irish food producers and farmers are under continually to compete with the food giants of America and Europe.

Joel writes from an American perspective where things are pretty bad for small farmers, it makes me think again how impossible it is to survive in America if you're not one of the food conglomerates, and makes it all the more remarkable that anyone even tries. People like this make us here in Ireland look very lucky indeed. See what you think and let me know your views.

The full piece can be found at http://flavormagazinevirginia.com/foodie-elitism/ here's a synopsis -

Rebel with a cause- food elitism?

Because high-quality local food often carries a higher price tag than food generated by the industrial system, the charge of elitism coming from fans of industrial food is often vitriolic, and embarrassed foodies agonise over it. For all their positive energy surrounding food, I’ve found latent guilt among this group — guilt for paying more for local food when others are starving, guilt for caring about taste when others would happily eat anything. Instead of cowering in self-guilt, let’s confront the issue of prices head on.


Why It’s Worth It



First, it’s better food. It tastes better. It handles better. And it’s safer: Anyone buying chemicalized, drug-infused food is engaging in risky behavior. It’s also nutritionally superior. For those willing to see, scientific data shows fresh foods’ conjugated linoleic acid, vitamins, minerals, brix readings, omega 3–omega 6 ratios, and polyunsaturated fat profiles are empirically superior. Better stuff is worth more.



Second, economies of scale will continue to progress as more people buy local food, which will bring prices down. The collaborative aggregation and distribution networks that have been fine-tuned by mega-food companies can and will be duplicated locally as volume increases and regional food systems get more creative.


Third, eating unprocessed foods is the best way to bring down your grocery bill, regardless of where the food originated. A 10-pound bag of potatoes costs the same as a 1-pound bag of potato chips. Cultivating domestic culinary arts and actually reinhabiting our kitchens—which we’ve remodeled and gadgetised at great cost—can wean all of us away from expensive processed food. A whole pound of our farm’s grass-finished ground beef, which can feed four adults, costs about the same as a Happy Meal. (And guess which one is more healthy?)


Fourth, non-scalable government regulations—which are designed to protect eaters from the dangers inherent in the industrial food complex but are not relevant in a transparent, regional food system—inordinately discriminate against smaller processing businesses like abattoirs, kitchens, and canneries, because the costs of complying with the (inappropriate) paperwork and infrastructure requirements cannot be spread out over a large volume of product. These regulations lead to price prejudice at the community-based scale: Small processors are at a disadvantage because they must pass those costs on to consumers, making their products more expensive than the mass-produced ones. These burdensome regulations also discourage entrepreneurs from entering local food commerce.



Fifth, unlike huge, single-crop or single-animal farms, diversified farms like ours do not receive government subsidies. Nor do the production, processing, and marketing of our food create collateral damage like that caused by factory farming—damage left for taxpayers to fix. Subsidies and government clean-up measures are not included in the price you pay for processed food at the grocery store, but if they were, local food would not seem so expensive in comparison.


Consider the Rhode Island–sized area in the Gulf of Mexico now known as a “dead zone” because nothing can survive in the oxygen-starved water, a result of manure and pesticide runoff. Who pays for the clean up and the reversal efforts? Who pays to address antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria like MRSA, caused by the overuse of antibiotics in CAFOs (concentrated animal feeding operations)? Who pays to treat people with Type II diabetes, which they get from consuming processed food that is sold cheaply because the corporations making it have received subsidies? Who pays to clean up stinky rural neighborhoods with densely populated poultry and livestock compounds? And what is the value of the land irreversibly damaged by bad farming practices?


Sixth—and this is where I wanted to head with this discussion—plenty of money already exists in our economic system to pay for good food. Can you think of anything people buy that they don’t need? Tobacco products, $100 designer jeans with holes already in the knees, KFC, soft drinks made with high fructose corn syrup, Disney vacations, large-screen TVs, jarred baby food? America spends more on veterinary care for pets than the entire continent of Africa spends on medical care for humans.


I won’t labour the point, but if you took all the money people spend on unnecessary baubles and junk food, it would be enough for everyone to eat like kings. We could all be elitists.
With that money, we could create a world where all the people eat food that is above average. Almost everyone I know who owns a community supported agriculture (CSA) share could afford to purchase an extra one for an impoverished family. And if you had to give up a few $4 lattes to do it? What a pity.



Spare Change?


At the risk of sounding uncharitable, I think we need to quit being victims and bring about change ourselves. Don’t complain about being unable to afford high-quality local food when your grocery cart is full of beer, cigarettes, and People magazine. Most people are more connected to the celebrities in People than the food that will become flesh of their flesh and bone of their bones at the next meal.



The other day I saw precooked bacon in a box at the supermarket—for $30 a pound. Do we really have to buy precooked bacon? If you took the average shopping cart in the checkout line and tossed out all the processed food—everything with an ingredient you can’t pronounce, everything you can’t re-create in your kitchen, and everything that won’t rot—and substituted instead locally sourced, fresh items, you would be dollars ahead and immensely healthier.
We can all do better. If we can find money for movies, ski trips, and recreational cruises, surely we can find the money to purchase integrity food. The fact is that most of us scrounge together enough pennies to fund the passion of our hearts. If we would cultivate a passion for food like the one we’ve cultivated for clothes, cars, and entertainment, perhaps we would ultimately live healthier, happier lives.


Embracing Elitism
To suggest that advocating for such a change makes me an elitist is to disparage positive decision making and behaviour. Indeed, if that’s elitism, I want it. The victim mentality our culture encourages actually induces guilt among people making progress. That’s crazy. We should applaud positive behavior and encourage others to follow suit, not demonize and discourage it. Would it be better to applaud people who buy amalgamated, reconstituted, fumigated, irradiated, genetically modified industrial garbage?



The charge of elitism is both unfair and silly. We foodies are cultural change agents, positive innovators, integrity seekers. So hold your head high and don’t apologize for making noble decisions.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Food that's a little too wild to eat

It's nice to have food in the garden this time of year but perhaps not the Fly Agaric mushroom. Styled by Walt Disney; it's poisonous, psychoactive and great news if you own a head shop, but not if you've a toddler who wanders round the garden in the tutelage of a mentally challenged Labrador. So I need to get rid of it, fast.


Popular as a hallucinogenic it's not famous by accident. Fly Agaric was used popularly to kill flies but its real claim to fame is that vikings were fond of it to jizz themselves up for battle. They reckoned it was too strong to be eaten raw so fed the mushroom to reindeer and then drank the deer's urine to limit the effects.
And in our garden, unfortunately it's not alone, there's a whole nightclub of mushrooms partying on the lawn at the moment, including lots of "magic mushrooms" of different types, we counted over twenty varieties before giving up. From peering into my wildlife book, it looks that we have Orange Peel, Butter Cap, Tawny Grisette, Shaggy ink cap, Sulphur tuft, Bay Bollette, Sickener (no surprise - poisonous), Rose Russula and Chanterelles which are very nice to eat indeed.

While I've gathered and cooked the common white mushroom before, I dithered over whether to cook any of the stuff in the garden - it's simply too hard to identify which is poisonous or not, and some of them looked like death caps. There were a ring of what looked like fairy ring champingnon but again I bottled it when it came to eating them. I know that at this time of year there are mushroom gathering days around the country to help identify what gems you might have in your garden, but without this expert advice I decided not to chance it.




My father who knows a bit about mushrooms looked at me in shock when I told him I was going to cook the fairy ring mushrooms. He's suspicious of anything that grows in a circle, maybe he's right, lots of nasty things grow in circles - like ringworm. His warning worked and I didn't eat them. In fact we gathered the whole lot off the lawn and filled two barrow loads before we gave up for the day. There are literally hundreds still growing, and they will probably continue to appear over the next few months. If it weren't for the baby I would be happy to leave them be.


This is one of the dilemmas with wild food - I'd much rather gather food on my doorstep then have to pay for it elsewhere, but foraging takes knowledge and experience, otherwise you could find yourself in A&E getting your stomach pumped. And in respect of many mushrooms; some foods are just too wild to tolerate inside, or outside your kitchen.








Tuesday, September 28, 2010

It's not just our banking crisis that's brought Ireland under the gaze of the international media

As a countryside lover it's easy to fall in love with horses, and if you ride or look after these lovely animals its very hard to ignore the huge welfare problem we have in the horse sector in Ireland.

Today the Irish Times published a piece I've written for them on the complex and ugly issue of equine welfare and why no one is willing to take ownership of it. I really hope it brings some pressure to bear on the department of Agriculture to provide emergency funding to the horse charities this Winter or to provide a cull scheme, ideally both.

If the problem is being reported as far away as Switzerland and New Zealand, it's clear we've a crisis on our hands. If we don't sort it out our image of being a horse loving, and great horse producing nation we only have ourselves; the Irish to blame. Please, Government bodies, help us do something about it.


Piece is linked here or read the whole feature below -
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/features/2010/0928/1224279819356.html






The number of starved and abused horses is rising. As winter approaches and charities are forced to turn animals away, is a cull the only way to clean up Ireland's horse welfare mess? Suzanne Campbell reports

IN A STABLE yard in Co Wicklow, a small, emaciated thoroughbred mare stands dejectedly with her head almost touching the straw. Much of her coat has fallen out and her spine and ribs protrude from distended skin resembling the bare timbers of a boat.

“This mare is typical of what we’re seeing at the moment,” says Sharon Newsome, who runs the yard. “She’s starved, but actually she’s a well-bred horse.” In another time the pretty filly would probably have been in training on the Curragh – but not today.

Newsome runs the Irish Horse Welfare Trust (IHWT), a charity under immense pressure to clean up the mess left behind by the Celtic Tiger’s surge in horse ownership. While in the past decade the leisure horse industry flourished, it was racing which really expanded, as hundreds of syndicates of both elite and ordinary folk seized their moment to live the dream. From 2001 to 2006 the number of racehorses in training in Ireland increased by 22 per cent. When the economy collapsed, trainers’ fees weren’t paid and fields full of horses suddenly had no owners. Culling horses may now be the only way to reduce the number of cases of starvation and abuse.

Alongside our banking woes, Ireland’s horse welfare crisis has put us under the gaze of the international media. Earlier this month the Sunday Telegraph joined Swiss Television (Schweizer Fernsehen) and Horse and Hound magazine in airing Ireland’s horse welfare problems. To read in a foreign newspaper that a horse in Dublin “was recently found with its legs bound, sunk to the bottom of a river” is to be presented with an image at odds with the sleek and glossy one that the €1 billion Irish horse industry likes to present.

As winter approaches, welfare groups project that hundreds of abandoned and starving horses will be found countrywide. In the case of the thoroughbred mare rescued by the IHWT, her owner was an elderly man who didn’t want to part with her even when a member of the public called gardaí and asked them to seize the horse.

“The problem is that now we have no room for even seized animals – the bad cruelty cases or starved horses like this one,” says Newsome. “I dread answering the phone or looking at our email because there are so many people desperate to get rid of horses.”



Horse ownership “is like a disease in this country”, says Paddy Wall, one of the writers of a UCD report on the welfare problems currently tarnishing the sector. While in the boom years everyone wanted to be part of the sport of kings, the recession hit horses particularly badly.
Over the past two years many animals went to the sales but came home unsold or went for well below their asking price. This brought them into the ownership of people who could afford to buy a horse for a few hundred euro but not the thousands of euro it takes to keep one over its lifetime.
Since 2007, well-bred racehorses and showjumpers have started to change hands for less than it would cost to feed them for a year. A fit thoroughbred was recently sold out of a training yard in Co Kildare for €200. As this reality hit home, some owners trade them on down the chain to those even less capable of looking after them. Then last winter the crisis truly hit.
“Last year was worse than I could have imagined,” says Newsome. “The bad weather meant there was no grazing and animals were left to starve or set loose on bogs or mountains if the owners didn’t want to be prosecuted. There is no facility where they can go. We’re the only dedicated horse charity in the country, and the few local authority pounds can barely cope.”
ISPCA CENTRES HAVE also seen a huge surge in the number of people contacting them about abandoned horses. “In 2008 we had 408 phone calls about horses, then last year we had 1,100,” says the organisation’s chairwoman, Barbara Bent. “Already this year we’ve had hundreds of rescue cases. We can’t take on any more animals and I don’t know what’s going to happen once the summer grass runs out.”
It is not only to welfare groups that the crisis is evident. The UCD report, published this summer, recognises the problem is “a human one, not a horse one”, as Wall puts it. Welfare issues exist across all sections of the industry, from National Hunt racing to horse fairs. The report identifies over-production of horses, lack of traceability in the system, poor understanding of the costs of horse care, all exacerbated by the effects of the economic crash, as the key factors in bringing horse welfare to crisis point.
“This is not a popular message, but it doesn’t get us past the fact that this is a difficult situation,” says Joe Collins, co-author of the UCD report. “Energy can be spent talking about it, but it’s no substitute for action.”
Prosecuting owners for cruelty doesn’t seem to be the way to get people to buy feed for their animals. The courts can take 18 months or more to turn around a cruelty case, and the fines are small. “The legislation is a hundred years old and the penalties are too small,” says Bent. “Unless we really do something about this problem, Ireland is going to lose its good name as a horse producer – and we need to protect that name.”
Three weeks ago, on a housing estate in Co Wicklow, a welfare officer from the IHWT identified a black and white gelding left to starve in the garden of a boarded-up house. It appeared to have been stabbed in the chest. As it was being removed, the horse’s two teenage owners arrived in a highly emotional state. “You’re not taking this horse, get away from my horse,” they yelled, jostling the three gardaí who had arrived to help out the welfare officer.
It emerged the teenagers had bought the animal for €100 from a 10-year-old boy standing in the middle of a roundabout the week before. It was untrained, and neither of them had any experience to turn it into a riding horse. But the lure of horse-owning status outweighed such practical considerations.
Coaxing by the gardaí and the IHWT officer eventually won out and the two lads relented, admitting they wouldn’t be able to feed the animal. As for the stab wound and other scars on the horse’s flanks, the teenagers were adamant it wasn’t them but that some of “the other lads round here” weren’t as nice to their horses as they were.
The gelding is now awaiting a new home. His story may yet end happily, but that’s not the case for the ponies driven in harness on roads, at high speeds, until they drop dead. The over-supply of horses has diminished their value and, in a world where value brings respect, this can be fatal. The Dublin SPCA reports horses changing hands at Smithfield market for as little as €20, or being swapped for mobile phones. When an animal’s life is so cheap it’s not hard to imagine why a teenager might choose to ride it to death for sport.
At an Oireachtas Agriculture Committee meeting this summer, TDs listened to expert opinion from the horse sector predicting a disastrous winter ahead.
Some witnesses, including RTÉ racing pundit Ted Walsh, explained to the committee that euthanasia can cost up to €300 per horse in Ireland, and that many owners will therefore abandon an animal instead. If a horse has a “clean passport” – meaning that it hasn’t received drugs in its lifetime which make it unfit for human consumption – it can go to a meat factory, where it will be humanely killed. Its meat will then go into the food chain destined for Europe. However, few of the horses affected by the current crisis have passports.
One of the solutions is a cull scheme, involving a once-off amnesty whereby the State would absorb the cost of humanely destroying unwanted animals. As draconian as it sounds, to put a horse down in such a way is better than making it endure a slow death by starvation.
Fine Gael’s agriculture spokesman Andrew Doyle is adamant that a cull is needed to take horses out of the system. “There should be some sort of incentive for people to bring unwanted horses forward rather than being prosecuted later for cruelty,” he says.
Another option would be to look for a derogation from the regulations on horses going into the food chain to permit animals without passports to go the meat-factory route.
“If you do a cull for a year or so, the problem is dealt with and you won’t have to do it againsays Doyle. “It’s in our face now – we’ve a whole load of unwanted animals that no one wants to know about and if we don’t so something quickly the outcome won’t be good.”
The Department of Agriculture acknowledges the current welfare problem but its view on a cull is that it’s “not an appropriate approach as such an initiative would not necessarily result in the slaughter of the target population – ie, those horses that are most vulnerable”.
The department has approved five meat plants around the country for horse slaughter, but these facilities can only take animals with clean passports so they can join the food chain. The average horse starving on a bog or a housing estate is not the type of animal that has a passport.
While the TDs on the Agriculture Committee may call for a cull, will they have the appetite to lobby the department after the political brawl caused by recent legislative moves against dog breeding and stag hunting? Cork TD Christy O’Sullivan (FF), for one, is adamant that a cull is the only route to take.
“I’ve cross-party support on this and I want to see the problem addressed rather than get worse,” he says. “We’re all part of the problem.”
A world away from Leinster House, Sharon Newsome views the possibility of such a scheme with scepticism. “We went to the Minister for Agriculture in October 2009, with industry bodies, and told them that this problem was coming. Then we said this problem is here. Now we have a UCD report backing up the evidence we are seeing on the ground, but what is it going to take to get something done?” she says.
Ireland may be the land of the horse, but the horse welfare mess we’ve created has yet to find an owner

Thursday, September 23, 2010

And I thought salmon was naturally that colour



Smart Consumer: The unpalatable truth about the salmon on your plate
By Suzanne Campbell
Thursday September 23 2010



Close your eyes and picture a salmon. Odds are that you think of a gleaming muscular fish leaping up a river in full flood. It's this image which informs our decision making at the fish counter.



We also think of salmon as a healthy food -- rich in omega-3 fish oils and a tasty source of low-fat protein. But a new book by American food writer Paul Greenberg probes into the image of salmon, revealing some uncomfortable truths about Ireland's favourite fish.
More than 99% of the salmon sitting on Irish supermarket counters and in delicatessens is farmed.



Some of it is Irish fish but most of what we eat originates in Scotland or Norway.
Wild salmon is scarce around the world and with the ban on drift netting in Ireland, it's now out of reach for most of us and will only appear on the menus of very good restaurants or in small quantities at specialised fishmongers.



The fact that we are eating almost exclusively farmed salmon doesn't seem to affect our appetites for it. What Greenberg points out is that while salmon has obvious health benefits, questions have to be asked about what eating farmed salmon does to the availability of other fish. The book also shows how our demand for cod, tuna and sea bass led to their shrinking availability.



But for Irish consumers who return to the fish counter again and again for salmon, what does he say about how healthy a choice it really is? Salmon from fish farms are artificially spawned, reared in pens with thousands of other fish all swimming tightly together in circles and fed a diet that contains colorants to make its flesh pink. There's little natural about a farmed salmon except that it's still living in water.



Even less appetising is that farmed salmon are fed pellets made from ground-up wild fish, mixed with soya and cereals -- not quite its natural diet. The pellets also contain a pigment to colour the salmon's flesh; the tone depends on the country the fish is destined for. So you'll find farmed salmon in South America very red in colour, whereas we in Ireland prefer it a soft pink.
Critics of farmed salmon find this 'Dulux colour card' approach enough reason to boycott it, but the fish farming sector claims that the colourant is nothing more than a natural carotenoid pigment named astaxanthin; exactly the same molecule that wild salmon get from eating small shellfish.



Astaxanthin is now made in a laboratory rather than by shellfish, so what are we worried about? Aren't many of the foods that we eat artificially coloured? Or is it just that colouring the flesh of live animals crosses some kind of line?



Of more impact is the colossal amount of other fish species that go into creating the fish pellets farmed salmon eat. Greenberg points out that it takes up to six pounds of wild fish to produce one pound of salmon and that part of the problem with the world's diminishing fish stocks is this hoovering up of other species to feed our insatiable appetite for pink fish.



The farmed salmon currently on our fish counters has also been genetically selected to have a quicker growth rate. Since the Norwegians pioneered farming salmon on a mass scale they've engineered a fish that has double the growth rate of wild salmon. This super salmon matures faster and dominates salmon production across the world, so much so that three billion pounds of farmed salmon are produced globally; three times the amount of wild fish harvested.
While this may be hailed as a breakthrough by fish breeders, this immense salmon production has been at the cost of the nine billion pounds of wild fish that have been caught and ground into pellets to feed them.



Greenberg points out that as humans have been farming salmon since the 15th Century you'd think we'd have got it right by now, but sadly mistakes have been made.
Blood meal from chickens was routinely fed to salmon to provide micro nutrients and only banned after BSE came to light. Fish were also crammed into cages that were too small and sea lice proliferated, affecting other species.



In Ireland, Scotland and Norway, studies found that the presence of salmon farms increased the level of sea lice infestation on sea trout. It also badly affected Irish wild salmon.
But most detrimental to the image of farmed salmon was the extent to which they were found to contain PCBs -- polychlorinated biphenyls, which came to light in a report published in 2004.
PCBs are toxins which have found their way into fish from run-off into rivers of waste from manufacturing plants. They accumulate progressively over time meaning that those at the top of the food chain -- humans -- are exposed to the highest levels.



In the research published in the journal Science, farmed salmon was found to contain higher concentrations of PCBs than its wild counterpart. PCBs were subsequently banned, but not before confidence in farmed salmon had taken a hit. Many Irish fishermen still claim that the waste from salmon cages is not sufficiently washed out to sea and affects the local environment as waste pellets and faeces fall through the nets onto the seabed underneath. The Irish fish farming sector claims it's one of the cleanest in Europe as it is located in strong Atlantic seas which quickly get rid of the waste.



How to spot the best fish over the counter -

Salmon farming will continue to grow all over the world, despite its detractors. If you want to still eat fish with strong health benefits that doesn't wipe out our future choices of seafood, here are some alternatives.

For fish rich in Omega-3 oils, buy anchovies, sardines and mackerel. Mackerel and herring have healthy populations in Irish seas and have plenty of flavour; even when grilled and served with a simple salad.

Ling, blossom and coley are cheap substitutes for cod. They are so close in flavour, texture and appearance to cod that they have been found to be labelled and sold as their more expensive cousin.

If you really want salmon, ask for salmon that's farmed in Ireland at the fish counter of your supermarket or delicatessen. 75% of salmon produced in Ireland is organically certified, so not only is the cereal feed organic, the fish component of the pellets is of a low percentage and comes from monitored fish stocks. The stocking density in organic salmon cages is also less dense.

Buy fish in M&S -- they have been rated the leading retailer for responsible fishing by Greenpeace and only stock tuna caught by the pole and line system which is more sustainable.

Look out for the Bord Bia Seafood Circle mark at the supermarket fish counter or at the fish mongers. These fish sellers are the most educated in terms of the quality and source of the fish that they stock, and can give you the best information about what's fresh, in season and how to cook it.

Suzanne Campbell for The Irish Independent



Four Fish by Paul Greenberg is published by Penguin. Suzanne Campbell's food blog is at www.basketcasetheblog.blogspot.com

Monday, September 20, 2010

How Twitter saved my bacon

Cooking isn’t easy without a cooker. This lightbulb moment struck when we moved into our new house this week and found a 90cm gap in the kitchen. So a new Smeg it is, but as the Smeg elves don’t deliver till 2014 or something, we still have a giant hole and no cooker. I did think of building a small fire in the centre of the kitchen but P intervened, suggesting that fires around small children might not be safe, I pointed out that I wasn’t a small child anymore but a teenager.


After an appeal on Twitter for solutions, a friend saw the Tweet and replied, saying she could call round pronto with a mobile hot plate. How fantastic is Twitter, I might generally discuss my current needs and wants online and wait for people to answer the call -

@campbellsuz - shoes in bits, need a pair of studded Lamboutin pumps

@campbellsuz - knackered, holiday in Peter Mantle's new place in the Bahamas please

@campbellsuz - and a new set of pots to go with my fancy cooker

It comes down to this; if you don’t ask you don’t get, and a big network of people are much better placed to help you out in such life threatening occasions as having to eat from a microwave for several weeks. So the Tweet Plea saved our bacon, or rather, cooked it. The mobile hot plate is not the prettiest item in the world– made by Prima circa 1987. It’s a flat square thing and comes with its own induction heat base saucepan and frying pan. When you switch it on it roars with the intensity of a space shuttle warming up, which frightened myself and the dog quite a bit, but overall it's working quite a treat.


I could have just used the microwave for a couple of weeks and left the good people on Twitter alone. But I have a fear of microwaves and especially with the baby’s food I go to great lengths to avoid using it. I’m certain that it’s only a matter of time before some really frightening research bursts out of Berkeley or someplace on what microwaves are doing to our health and how we’ve been nuking our food for decades now in complete ignorance (I know the truth is out there somewhere and you will find it Michael Pollan).

Plenty of people cook all their evening meals in a microwave, and no doubt they are great tools of convenience. I remember the arrival of a giant fawn-coloured Bosch microwave into our house in the eighties. It was the size of a small car, and the object of general fear and awe. It hummed and vibrated with a golden spread of light from the interior in the manner of the Ark of the Covenant in Indiana Jones before it explodes and melts all the Nazi’s faces – a special effect that had to be borrowed from a microwave’s own effect on cheese.

Until we find out the possible murky truth about their effect on our health, I still don't like the effect they have on food - everything is roasted on the outside and ice cold in the middle. For the moment I'm sticking with the hot plate. It's not glamorous, it's not sexy, it's not Smeg. But it sure beats the microwave. Thank you Twitter.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

A "back to front" dinner party, and why I'm giving up cooking

When you're surrounded by house-moving boxes and flailing through bubblewrap for wine glasses is one job too many, it was a blessed relief to have a dinner invitation this weekend and escape the mess. The worst part is agonising over what to throw out - today I finally let P ditch my t-shirt from Notting Hill Carnival 1991. Sacrilege, yes. Piece of shit garment that I was never going to wear again, yes.

So when someone tells you its dinner time at their place, the prospect of having a break from saying things like "can you Oxfam sunscreen?" to eat someone else's fantastic food is pure bliss. And to make things even better, the occasion was no ordinary meal, but a gastronomic adventure in time travel - bear with me on this.

The hostess - Francesca Walsh, not only entertains on a grand scale but puts the type of expertise and effort into technical, high end cooking that leaves most of us far behind and still hunting around for a tin of tuna.

With twelve dining, Francesca's candlelit summerhouse was the venue for her "back to front dinner party" - where all the dishes had the appearance of something from the opposite end of the meal. Complicated yes, and the type of thing best left to Heston Blumenthal. But novelty cooking has a fun factor and offers a welcome change to over-safe restaurant menus which constantly list the same ten or so dishes. It's got to the point where "beer battered cod with pea puree" sends me into a coma.

Francesca's starter was Cashel Blue cheesecake with tomato ice cream. Yes, this was a starter. To be fair, she admits this wasn't the most successful of the dishes - her comment was "Vile. Do NOT try this at home" but she's exaggerating. Blue cheese in a cheesecake is a genius idea, this one just had slightly too much of it, likewise the tomato ice cream.

Main Course was served in the form of an afternoon tea. A baked prawn mousse in the shape of a muffin not only looked the part but tasted sublime. This was accompanied by a small triangular sandwich of flat bread enclosing fresh green beans with a baked pollock fillet. A crisp round of short-cut pastry was dressed as a drop scone and topped with lump fish caviar (the jam).

And there's more. To accompany this course she served a cup of tea - a saffron and mushroom broth served in delicate china cups, this was so delicious I had seconds. By this stage I was making a mental note never to cook for Francesca again.

Dessert was soup (Back to Front dinner party ..... remember?) - The chilled raspberry and black cherry soup was accompanied by breakfast lavender cream served in egg shells. The eggs were placed in delicate silver egg cups and dressed with`toasted soldiers' of Madelaine's which sat within the lavender cream placed in the eggshells. The raspberry and black cherry soup was fantastic - really sweet flavours but with a richness and depth that suited being served as a soup.

This was following with Petits Fours - black chocolate truffles with popping candy inside. It was a deliciously smooth end to a fun meal. At this point, I felt I needed a small lie down a la Christmas dinner but my plans were interrupted by a loud rhythmical thumping in the next room. Guests paused, Petit Fours half-way to our mouths while we encouraged our lovely hostess to ignore the noise. Good job she didn't - Lily the cat was rotating steadily in the tumble dryer - having her own version of Funderland without having paid for the pleasure.

As you can imagine, full on drama ensued but Lily was retrieved and apart from a little dazed seemed in good spirits. It's just as well dinner parties like this don't happen on a regular basis. For one, how could I serve my Oliver Twist type offerings knowing that such delights exist on other people's tables, and secondly, how can you top "cat survives tumble dryer" as your evenings entertainment. So I'm throwing in the towel, just as well our dinnerware is in packing boxes, it won't be leaving there anytime soon.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Tony Blair "hunting ban was a mistake"

In Tony Blair's repentance splurge surrounding the publication of his new book, he admits that banning hunting was em, a bit of an error. Asked today if the ban was a mistake - "I think yes on balance it was in the end. Its not that I particularly like hunting or have ever engaged in it or would. I didn't quite understand, and I reproach myself for this, that for a group of people in our society in the countryside this was a fundamental part of their way of life." Blair accepted that the ban was "not one of my finest policy moments".

No sireee. The ban turned hundreds of thousands of countryside Brits onto the street to march to protect their way of life, and galvanised people who didn't feel strongly Tory to commit to vote for them. It's clearly not the morals of the issue Blair regrets but losing the labour party's rural vote for perhaps a generation. In my research for the book I came across a labour MP who smugly admitted that hunting was a "class issue" for them. It's really depressing that perceptions of class should drive a policy issue in a childish, -"we'll show the rich toffs" manner. Well they certainly paid for it in the 2010 election and will do so for lets say, about another 20 years.
Rural voters whether they cared or not about hunting saw the vote as proof that labour wasn't in touch with countryside issues- food prices, subsidies, closure of rural services and how British farming was a dying activity. The hunting ban simply galvanised all these issues together. If you talk to people living in rural Britain they still feel passionately that Labour let the countryside go to rot in this period. That's why any move in this country to ban hunting will bring about a meltdown - look at what happened with the Ward Union.
And typically, when if does happen, a proposed ban will come from urban based TDs who don't see the kind of mania this issue raises in the countryside, as it pulls all sorts of other emotions and grudges into the mix. Watch and learn Leinster House, if you don't get countryside issues right they eventually come down on you like a ton of bricks.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Food poisioning, animal cruelty and rape of employees - the real nice side to America's factory farms

US agriculture is reeling from a salmonella outbreak which has left more than 1500 Americans ill with food poisioning and lead to the recall of more than half a billion eggs. The food firm at the centre of this outbreak had already been named a "habitual violator" of regulations and has been breaking the law since 1994. If there was an ugly face to factory farming, and an example of how loose food regulation is in the US, this is clearly it.

The DeCosters plant in Iowa which is the focus of the outbreak produces 2.3 million dozen eggs a week and has also been sued by neighbours for noxious gases, millions of gallons of uncovered manure and putrid animal carcasses left on roadways,

Not only has Mr. Austin DeCoster habitually broken food and environment regulations, in 2002 he paid a settlement to eleven female workers at his plant. Most of the women were Mexican, and the payment was made for sexual harassment and assault charges, including rapes by supervisors.

Notwithstanding the current salmonella outbreak, here's a quick run down of DeCosters adventures so far -

In 1997, he agreed to pay $2 million in fines for health and safety violations. The US labour secretary at the time, Robert Reich, said conditions on his farm in Maine were "as dangerous and oppressive as any sweatshop." Reich's successor, called the farms "simply atrocious," citing unguarded machinery, electrical hazards, exposure to harmful bacteria and unsanitary conditions.
In 2000, the state of Iowa designated DeCoster a "habitual violator" of environmental regulations for problems that included run-off of pig manure into local waterways.

In 2002, the federal Equal Employment Opportunity Commission announced the $1.5-million settlement of the lawsuit against DeCoster Farms on behalf of the employees who reported sexual harassment, rape, abuse and retaliation by supervising staff at DeCoster's Wright County plants.

In 2007, 51 workers were arrested during an immigration raid at his farms. This was the fourth illegal immigration raid carried out by authorities.


In June 2010, Maine Contract Farming, the successor company to DeCoster Egg Farms, agreed to pay $25,000 in penalties and to make a one-off payment of $100,000 to the Maine Department of Agriculture over animal cruelty allegations that were spurred by a hidden-camera investigation by an animal welfare organization.

Why does America continually turn its back on the catastrophic problems evident in their factory farms, if anything, surely their risk to human health should at least prompt a re-think. The Department of Agriculture and the FDA in the US have so far shown little regard for cleaning up anything other than food crises long after they've happened and public health has already been put at risk, let alone the issues surrounding animal cruelty and the monopolies operating food production in the US.
"Light touch" regulation in the US is the order of the day. After all, the FDA still allows growth hormones in cows despite their link with tumours, they also permit the routine feeding of antibiotics to healthy livestock to promote their growth, a practice which allegedly contributes to the evolution of antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria and they also allow cloned animals be be sold without special labelling.
On top of this the Department of Agriculture has just announced a recall of 8,500 pounds of ground beef for possible E. coli contamination. It's sad that we know of food horrors in the US only come to light when it's too late. If you really want to know what does on on American farms read Johnathon Safran Foer's "Eating Animals". It'll tell you not just what's behind the label but also behind the farm, read it. It ain't pretty.
For more on the salmonella outbreak and the incredible flouting of regulations by the DeCosters http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/27/us/27eggs.html

Irish fruit growers - a dying breed


No wonder we can't find Irish fruit in our supermarkets; on Saturday's Countrywide we discussed how sadly many people have stopped farming Irish fruit over the past ten years, particularly apples. Not only are there few farmers left in the business, for those interested in starting up it's very costly to enter – to plant an acre costs about 10,000 euros. And not only are the start up costs prohibitive, you’ve a lot of expense on labour afterwards. And if you haven’t an existing market or relationship with supermarkets it’s hard to sell them. All of this points to why as consumers we have little choice but to buy foreign fruit in our supermarkets.


Generally the multiples are fairly unapolegic about all this, saying that for value they need to import apples from as far away as China and Chile and have a year round supply. But Irish apples can be available from September to April if they are stored and many varieties store well but it's more about what the consumer wants and if they stop looking for Irish fruit there’s no need for the supermarket to stock Irish fruit. So we can only blame ourselves for not looking for Irish produce, if there's no demand for it supermarkets won't stock it, it's as simple as that.

Despite this there are still a few growers around the country who are keeping the tradition of apple growing in Ireland and saving the breeds that were once plentiful in this country. In Tipperary Con Traas runs a great example of a thriving apple and soft fruit business despite difficult times in food retail.

He has 30 acres in apples about 20 of that is commercial breeds which he makes into juices and sells the apples, but he also has about 10 acres in Irish rare breeds. His parents were fruit growers in Holland and they came to Ireland in the 1960s as land was short in Holland, buying the land he still farms on. When they first came to Cahir they grew everything from tulips to cabbages. Apples were also something they produced and in addition to keeping on that tradition, Con has a large amount of soft fruit in the summer time; mostly strawberries and raspberries, but coming into September, now is the height of apple season on the farm.


Con also has old Irish Breeds of apples but we don’t these commercially for sale. It’s a real pity, we have some great old Irish apples with wonderful names like Buttermilk Russet, Cavan Newington and Ballinore Pippin but the fact of the matter is that in today’s mass market, Irish apples just don’t cut the mustard so to speak. You might have a great variety but it blemishes easily, or you have a lovely tasting apple which falls off the tree too early and you can’t sell them all at the one time, so in terms of commercial apple growing they have missed the boat, but in terms of growing them at home or saving Irish varieties it’s a great thing to have in your garden and also important to keep that genetic heritage alive. Con still thinks it’s important to grow these apples and he juices them and sells them direct in his farm shop.


It's great to see an example of a farm shop working really well. Certainly on the apples he is very competitive on price, somewhere around half the price of the supermarkets. On the soft fruit his prices are around the same or a little bit lower than the supermarkets - obviously the supermarkets can offer special offers but he has the freshest of produce that’s picked at the last minute. So in terms of ripeness, taste and quality Irish fruit rather than imports definitely wins out.

Fruit growing is one of the areas in Ireland where farmers have real problems dealing with the supermarkets. I was talking recently to a farmer who offered to match the price of what one of the convenience stores was selling their fruit from Chile for, but even then this particular supermarket didn’t want to take their locally grown goods. They often don’t see the merits of Irish fruit and want to sell it as cheaply as possible so what you get is fruit from all over the world while Irish strawberries are being sold at the side of the road. Con gets round that by direct selling to most of his customers but does sell some to the supermarkets. He also said to me that if you’re producing a huge amount of one fruit, raspberries for example and the supermarket change the terms of the contract or refuse to take them off your hands you’re really in a vulnerable position so having small amounts of different produce is a safer bet, if you’re solely reliant on a supermarket to take your whole production then you can end up finding things very hard.


He also makes his own juices on the farm starting with apple juice about 15 years ago. A while back he began freezing his excess strawberries and raspberries to make mixed apples and berry juices. And this is fairly technologised stuff done on a large scale, for example he has a juice pressing machine that’s the size of a small car that’s one of the only ones in Europe, so it’s quite specialised stuff. And while you might think that’s enough to be going on with he also has a another alternative enterprise on the farm - a camping and caravan park.

It's amazing to see so many enterprises on the one farm, all of which are pulling in money and working well. There’s no doubt that hard work is one of the key things that goes into his operation, when I was down with him his phone is constantly going, he’s checking in with workers picking the apples and strawberries and really it’s the definition of multitasking. Despite this there is an approach which is working for him in doing small things that don’t require massive investment at the outset.

He warns about farmers growing 500,000 tonnes of something being a lot more vulnerable than someone smaller so it works for him to spread the risk among different enterprises, particularly in dealing with the supermarkets this seems to be an advantage. So while farmers are often told you have to be huge to compete, trying alternative businesses out in small stages seems to also work.

The Countrywide programme featuring this item on Irish apples can be heard at -
http://www.rte.ie/radio1/countrywide/

Cons website is www.theapplefarm.com and he's located outside Cahir on the road to Clonmel, its a super place and a real example of alternative enterprises not only paying their way but being hugely successful.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

No, not fish, it's an Omega 3 enhanced cow

"Heart-smart" bacon? "Healthy" hamburger? The GM giant Monsanto thinks it's found a way to make red meat better for us and guess what, it's got both foodies and environmental activists worried.

Monsanto has produced a genetically engineered soybean that contains a version of omega-3, the well known "smart food" which has been shown to improve cardiovascular health. That's why we're told to eat more oily fish as omega-3 is usually found in seafood.
Monsanto's genius is to come up with meat products that have omega 3, so consumers can ditch that healthy serving of salmon and tuck into a burger instead. The omega-3 enhanced pork and beef comes from livestock being fed with the enhanced soybean, a nifty way to add value to your cheap as chips burger for sure.


And of course, Monsanto has filed patents on the "derived benefits" of feeding animals its new wonder product. Food products normally aren't granted patent protection. According to a story filed by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation, "the new patent applications have touched a raw nerve among those who see them as an attempt by the company to exert control over the food chain.""There's been a much more liberal approach to patenting food, and this patent raises issues about that," Dr. Matthew Rimmer, an Australian expert in agricultural intellectual property, told ABC. "Jurisprudence in the United States takes a very expansive view of patentable subject matter."


Monsanto replied by saying that it has no doomsday plans to control the world's food supply. "Monsanto does not intend to take ownership of livestock or fish or to sell company-branded milk, meat or eggs enriched with omega-3s to consumers," the company posted on its website in June. But environmental activists don't believe them, not for the first time. A representative from Greenpeace told the broadcaster "As a community, we need to decide whether we want our most basic foods to be owned by chemical companies."

This is not a new debate - the ownership of seed patents is something Monsanto continually comes under attack for. But if the widespread use of enhanced soya brings Monsanto to a stage where they also own the patents to meat produced from soya-fed animals, then some parts of the meat sector, particularly in the 'States could arrive at a sticky situation.
GM crops are not currently allowed to be grown in Ireland but there is an argument that we should let in GM animal feed as it would keep costs for farmers down, especially in the pigmeat sector. And you can imagine if this omega-3 enhanced feed is available, wouldn't many Irish farmers want it as it adds value to their product?


Keeping Ireland the Food Island GM free is worth the extra we pay for non-GM animal feed. Remaining GM free and keeping the perception that we have as a clean, green island has a lot more value in the long run to Irish, UK and especially EU consumers of our beef and pigmeat products. I just hope the regime stays as it is in this country - stick it out and consumers will stick with us, if we go down the American road, we'll only have more heartache in the longterm.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Irelands only wine, double entendres aside

I went onto RTE radio yesterday (The Mooney Show) to natter about David Llewellyn's Irish wine. I ended up saying "So I met up with David and he took me down to his tunnel to look at his grapes". The production team were hysterical, I wasn't. Apart from that clanger it was a nice item about what is essentially a novelty wine but Dermot O'Neill the gardening expert added to the discussion saying by that many more of us might be producing wine in future years as the climate warms. I'm on for that, it would definitely cut our wine bills.

Wine making in Ireland might seem a little bit far fetched, but various people in the past have produced wine in very small quantities - particularly those in the South and South West of the country who have been growing grapes or buying grapes and making their own wine for their household, a bit like home brewing I suppose, but few of these wines have been commercially available until now.


Climate is key to producing wine but interestingly the grapes themselves have a lot of importance in terms of climate. The development of varieties in Germany and particularly the South of England has led to vines that do well here providing the summer temperatures don’t plummet. It's been 20 years since David Llewellyn planted his first vines after returning from working in the wine business in Germany. He calls our climate “challenging” – a very polite term, and he’s spent a long time experimenting with what might work in this climate and has a couple of different varieties of vines growing on the farm.


Last week I went out to his farm to record the radio piece. Disappointingly the vineyard doesn't look anything like the beautiful stepped terraces of Northern Italy or the huge level hectares of vines that you see in Southern France. Because it’s Ireland, David has his vines in plastic tunnels (don't go there) to protect them from the damp and disease. At this time of year the grapes are a smaller version of a table grape, so about the size of a marble. The grapes are incredibly sweet and melt in your mouth which is the surprising thing, but it's that sweetness which is essential as its fermeted sugars which produce alcohol, therefore no big sweetness, no wine

Between now and the end of September the grapes will ripen then they are brought to a little machine that crushes them and takes the berries from the stalks, the stalks are quite bitter and need to be separated. Then that pulp is taken out, put into a press and pressed through cloth under pressure and then that juice is fermented into wine.

Like the general rules with wine, David bottles the whites sooner - in the spring after their harvest, but the red takes a year to two years to be ready. He sometimes adds sugar to bring up the alcohol level from about 10 to 12%. He produces a Sauvignon Blanc, a Rondo Regent, and a Cabernet Merlot. I've tasted the Cabernet Merlot and it is surprisingly good, a little young if you like, with no huge depth of flavour but it's a light fruity red wine and for people not fond of big heavy Merlot flavours this might be a nice alternative.

If climate does warm in future years we could see some farmers entering the wine business but really it's hard work to do it in Ireland and you need good knowledge of viticulture and be passionate about wine. But there’s no reason why anyone couldn't start a few vines and produce your own wine for drinking at home, and it could save you a bit of cash. Lusca wines are expensive – 38 euro a bottle, though he does half bottles as well. If you're looking for wine at more value you will certainly find it but the idea of growing your own wine is hugely appealing - a bit like owning a chateau. But a few vines in tubs on the terrace? I think I'll try it, if all else fails they'll still look pretty.

The programme can be heard at -
http://www.rte.ie/radio/mooneygoeswild/archive/index.html

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

To semi-rural or not to semi-rural

Peregrine falcons are bad bastards. This morning one of them dive bombed a wood pidgeon who was calmly pottering in the field outside our house and in a matter of seconds made mincemeat of him. Then he sat on top of the poor bird and tore him apart. While brutal, it was fascinating to watch.

The rain was pelting down, even the neighbours horses had squeezed into the field shelter (all five of them, which is usually interesting) but the peregrine ignored the driving rain and the horses and chewed up chunks of pidgeon for a good half hour.


Myself and the baby watched from the bedroom window but the baby wasn't very impressed. She likes her mammals large and her birds small, so that she can point at the bird feeders hung outside the kitchen windows and bellow "Tit!". Or rather "Dhat!". I found the whole thing thrilling, even if my knowledge of birds is limited to finches of various colours and a strain of robin we seem to have at our place who are so violently territorial they make Quentin Tarantino characters look lame. [One morning I found one of the robins sitting on top of the dead body of his rival pecking out his eyes for a small snack.]


So, downstairs we headed, to look in the bird watching books and sure enough the bird outside the window was a peregrine, with his distinctive black cheeks. I was delighted, I felt like texting all of my friends instantly, then I remembered that they have real lives where they do not look out of the window at birds killing other birds for half an hour in the morning.


At the moment we are living in a rural area close to a large town. It's great; I can keep an eye on farming and food production and who's doing what in their fields, while we still have our going- out nights, our nipping down to the shop for Bad Snacks, and all the advantages of country life - peregrines in the garden, pheasants patrolling the hedgerows, the activities of the dairy farm nearby and of course, loads and loads of illegal dumping.


While I loved watching our neighbours cut their barley last week (I hope they get a decent price this year) what I don't love is the sky high piles of scary stuff appearing in the lanes. And if you're situated in anything that looks like a country lane that's close to a urban area you've had it. And it's not only the usual - carpets, household rubbish, mother in laws etc, early this year we had five deer carcasses dumped over successive months, some of them headless, in a lane close to our house.What I can't work out is why.


Around that same time I did a report for RTE Radio's Countrywide programme on deer stalking and for sure, poaching of deer is a thriving activity at the moment. But it's usually to sell the venison to some naughty game dealers are buying out of season. Some say that lamping of deer at night is taking place, again for venison or for cheap meat for dogs - lurchers and the like which are used to bring them down. Nice.


To dump the carcasses makes no financial sense as you have to transport them to the lane, and drag them into the hedge - presumably to hide them, which hasn't worked at all well if I can see the white arses of the deer sticking out of the hedge ten yards away.The neighbours and myself can't work it out. It could be a farmer who is culling them because they're eating his grass. And doesn't want the bodies left on his land. Whatever the case it's an ugly practise and presents obvious public health issues if they are not removed.


This is the thing with country life. While you think you're safe from mad urban stuff it doesn't mean that mad stuff, whether urban or rural, doesn't come knocking at the door. In a few weeks we are to move from this house, to a more rural area. It'll be a big change and we will miss the proximity to urban life that we have now. I really don't want to go as I love it here but one thing is certain, I don't want to go back to living in an urban area. My daily walks round the edges of the fields are truly, the nicest part of the day. If we moved back into a town the labrador would get fat, and the baby and I would have nothing to look out the window at. Mind you, there's always Dr. Phil on the telly...